Show Strawberries are incredibly easy to grow, with sweet, juicy fruits that are hard to resist. If you plant several varieties, you can have harvests from early summer through into autumn. They take up little space, so are great in containers and even hanging baskets.
Most strawberries are grown from runners or young plants, but alpine strawberries can also be grown from seed:
Water new plants frequently while they are establishing, and water all plants during dry periods through the growing season. Try to avoid wetting the crown or fruit, as this can promote fungal diseases. In early spring, feed plants growing in the ground with a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4. Scatter half a handful per square metre/yard around the plants. Feed those in containers and grow bags with a high potassium liquid feed, such as tomato feed, weekly or fortnightly throughout the growing season. WeedingKeep strawberry beds weed free. To reduce the need for weeding, you can plant through slits in weed-suppressing membrane or polythene sheeting. Growing in containersStrawberries are easy to grow in containers. Peat-free multi-purpose compost is a good choice. Suitable containers include grow bags, hanging baskets, troughs and tubs. Although traditional strawberry pots look attractive, they make it difficult to maintain healthy, productive plants. Growing in pots avoids the build-up of soil problems, but vine weevil control is often essential. Protecting flowers and fruitsIf frost threatens, protect flowers and/or early fruits overnight with horticultural fleece. Unless growing through polythene sheeting, protect the developing fruits from wet soil by tucking straw or ‘strawberry mats’ under the fruits as they begin to swell. This also helps to keep fruit clean and suppress weeds. Some gardeners prefer to use barley straw as it is soft, but wheat straw is fine to use too. Netting will be needed to prevent birds stripping the fruit, but remove after harvesting to allow birds to feed on any remaining pests. Use 2cm (¾in) or 2.5cm (1in) plastic or other synthetic netting, and support the nets on a system of posts and wire or polypropylene string, making the cage 1.2m (4ft) high to allow access for picking. If squirrels are a problem, protect fruit with wire mesh. After harvesting
ReplantingA bed of strawberries usually lasts up to four years if planted into well-drained, fertile soil that is free from troublesome weeds. To avoid disease build-up, choose a different plot and replant strawberries every three years. PropagatingStrawberries can be propagated from runners (young plants that develop as offshoots from the parent) in late summer, but no later than early autumn:
Perpetual strawberries produce few runners and new plants are best bought annually. Seed-raised cultivars are available, but are not recommended, except for alpine strawberries (see Sow, above). Growing in a heated greenhouseStrawberries grown in a heated greenhouse can produce fruit as early as mid-March, although for high quality, well-coloured fruit it is better to aim for harvest in April. Suitable cultivars for forcing under glass include ‘Cambridge Favourite’ AGM, ‘Honeoye’ AGM, ‘Rosie’, ‘Royal Sovereign' and ‘Tamella’. For mid-March harvesting
For mid-April harvesting
For late April to early May harvesting
There are three kinds of strawberries:
Always buy plants from a reputable supplier, so that cultivars are true to type and plants are disease free. Strawberries can be bought as potted plants or bare-rooted runners:
There are lots of strawberry varieties to choose from, with various attributes, including different levels of sweetness, flavours, fruit size/shape and harvest times. If you plant several varieties with different cropping times, you can have harvests from early summer through to the first frosts. Look in particular for varieties with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), which shows they performed well in trials. See our list of AGM fruit and veg. Where to plantStrawberries like fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and do best in full sun, but will tolerate some shade. Alpine strawberries thrive in shade. Avoid planting in sites prone to frost, which can damage the flowers, or in exposed locations, which make it hard for pollinating insects to reach the flowers. Strawberries are traditionally grown in rows in a dedicated bed or strawberry patch. In poor soil, it’s best to grow them in raised beds, which provide better drainage and increased rooting depth. Avoid planting into ground that has previously been used for potatoes, chrysanthemums or tomatoes, because they’re all prone to the disease verticillium wilt. Strawberries also grow well in containers, including hanging baskets and windowboxes, as well as in grow bags. Early crops can be produced by growing strawberries in a heated greenhouse – see Grow, below, for details. How to plantPlant in mid-spring or late summer/early autumn (no later than the second week of September in southern regions, or the first week of September in the north), into moist soil.Prepare your ground by digging in two buckets of well-rotted manure or garden compost per square metre/yard. Add a general purpose fertiliser such as Growmore at 100g (3oz) per square metre/yard Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Trim the roots lightly to 10cm (4in) if necessary, then spread them out in the hole. Ensure that the base of the crown rests lightly on the surface before firming in gently. Planting at the correct depth is important – if the crown is planted too deeply it will rot, if it’s planted too shallowly the plants will dry out and die. Water the plants in well. Space plants 35–40cm (14–16in) apart, in rows 75–100cm (30in–3ft) apart. Many gardeners grow strawberries through polythene sheeting, ideally white with black on the underside, but any plastic mulching film will do. This suppresses weeds, holds water in the soil and stops soil splashing onto the fruit. An irrigation system, such as a leaky pipe, installed under the sheeting also helps to maintain moisture. When planting in autumn or early spring, remove the first flush of flowers on perpetual strawberries, but with summer-fruiting strawberries only remove the flowers if the plants are weak. When you plant cold-stored runners in late spring to early summer, leave the flowers on. These will produce strawberries in 60 days, reverting to their natural cropping period the following year. Strawberries ripen from early summer to early autumn, depending on the variety. Pick when they’re bright red all over, ideally during the warmest part of the day, as this is when they’re at their most tasty. Eat them as soon as possible – they don’t keep well once ripe. Most don’t hold their shape when frozen. Recommended VarietiesStrawberries can suffer from a range of problems, from bird and slug damage to specific problems such as strawberry virus and strawberry black eye. Fruits may occasionally be affected by phyllody. The fruit fly spotted wing drosophila (SWD) is likely to become an increasing problem. They may also suffer cold damage. Container-grown strawberries can be damaged by vine weevil. For strawberries grown under glass, aphids and red spider mite are the most troublesome pests, while mildew and grey mould might also be a problem. Grey mouldA usually grey, fuzzy fungal growth which can begin as pale or discoloured patches. Grey mould ( botrytis) is a common disease especially in damp or humid conditions. Spores enter plants via damaged tissue, wounds or open flowers. Mould can also damage ripening fruit such as strawberries. Black resting spores survive over winter. RemedyRemove damaged plant parts before they can become infected. Cut out infected areas into healthy tissue and clear up infected debris. In greenhouses, reduce humidity by ventilating and avoid overcrowding of young plants and seedlings. Powdery MildewAppears as a white powdery deposit over the leaf surface and leaves become stunted and shrivel. RemedyKeep the soil moist and grow in cooler locations. Frost damageLate frosts can damage growth, leading to it dying or being distorted. RemedyRemove any damaged growth and protect the bed with a double layer of horticultural fleece if frost is forecast. Vine weevilAdult vine weevils eat notches in the edges of leaves, while plump, creamy white larvae with brown heads cause more damage to the roots, on which they feed. This can kill the plants. RemedyApply biological control. Nigel Slater’s soft set strawberry jam is easy to make and tastes of summer. This strawberry and mascarpone tart is simple to make but looks impressive. Buy now The Royal Horticultural Society is the UK’s leading gardening charity. We aim to enrich everyone’s life through plants, and make the UK a greener and more beautiful place. |